MoreCooler.com: It's more cooler with the thing

I'm looking to brush up on my C++ skills, possibly with a simple game or somesuch. It's been a while since I've spent days searching for dropped semicolons, so I'm a bit out of the loop: what's a good compliler/IDE these days? No Microsoft, including C# and .NET, please. Needs to be for a Win32 environment, as I intend to do some DirectX 9 stuff. Oh, and no, I don't want to do this in Java. No game company worth their salt uses it; too damn slow.

IIRC, Codewarriors had a good product; anyone use them lately? Borland used to do some good stuff, too.